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I’ve been raising isopods since 2021, and over the years, I’ve followed various approaches. I think I’ve finally found the technique that works best for me, so I’d like to make it accessible to everyone. Each species of isopod has its own preferences when it comes to habitat and diet. Here you’ll find the basics of how to generally care for a colony of detritivorous isopods, but I recommend that you thoroughly research the specific species before bringing it into your home.
Isopods are descended from crustaceans that evolved to colonize the land. However, they have maintained their connection to water; in fact, their lungs require moisture to effectively absorb oxygen. There are approximately 10,000 species of isopods worldwide, half of which remain in the world’s saltwater habitats. The others have colonized freshwater habitats and the land. The diet of isopods varies from species to species: there are carnivorous, omnivorous, and herbivorous isopods, as well as isopods that parasitize fish. This fact sheet focuses on the detritivorous species that can be easily raised at home and are essential for maintaining bioactive terrariums.
Habitat, humidity, temperature and lighting
Newly purchased starter colonies contain between ten and twenty isopods. The ideal container for such a small number of isopods is an airtight plastic box with a few small ventilation holes, measuring approximately 20 cm by 20 cm. After a few months, when you notice a significant increase in numbers, you can transfer everything to a larger container; however, starting out with a giant box right away is more counterproductive than anything else because the isopods will have fewer opportunities to encounter one another and thus to mate.
The setup for isopod enclosures is always the same and requires one essential element: a deep layer of a good mix of substrate for detritivores, rich in decaying plant matter. Pieces of cork or white wood branches (oak, beech) should be added to the surface, along with chopped-up oak, maple, beech, or Prunus spp. leaves.
A constantly available source of calcium is necessary—whether it’s a cuttlebone, crushed eggshells, or calcium powder placed in a small bowl or sprinkled on the substrate, it doesn’t matter. I recommend placing a handful of sphagnum moss in one corner. Additionally, adding a small amount of springtails will help limit the occurrence of mold and gnats.
The humidity inside the terrarium should be kept around 60%, but without soaking the soil with water. Personally, I find it works great to mist the small pile of sphagnum moss once a week; this will get wet and sufficiently humidify the entire surrounding area, creating a humidity gradient while keeping the soil dry. It also serves as a hydration station: when the isopods need to rehydrate and stay in a damp environment, they can take refuge there.
The precise housing temperature varies by a few degrees from species to species, but generally speaking, I’ve observed that between 19°C and 22°C, isopods tend to stop reproducing and slow down their metabolism. Between 23°C and 27°C, they return to full activity, while at around 29°C and above, their reproductive rate declines.
Lighting is not at all necessary; in fact, some breeders keep them in a dark room. I recommend preventing direct sunlight from hitting their terrariums, as isopods are very sensitive to excessive heat.
Note: The terrarium will become uninhabitable for any isopod colony after 6 months of reproduction and new hatchlings, as the amount of feces will exceed that of the substrate. It is therefore advisable to replace 50% of the substrate twice a year, adding fresh, clean substrate.
The removed substrate will be teeming with isopods; my advice is to return the large, visible ones to the terrarium. The small ones, which are practically impossible to spot, can be managed by creating a new terrarium to hold the “discarded” substrate or by placing the substrate in the freezer for a couple of days and then using it as organic fertilizer for plants.
Diet
As detritivores, isopods feed primarily on detritus: soil, dead leaves, twigs, decaying wood, fungi, and dead plants and animals.The substrate must be rich in woody material and leaves—preferably rotten ones. However, leaves should also be provided on the surface, as they form the basis of their entire diet. Plant matter such as lichens, acorns, magnolia cones, and beech seeds are highly appreciated supplements and, in some cases, essential for establishing a colony. Anything collected from nature must be properly treated by freezing it and then offered in a dried state.
Personally, I offer fresh vegetables or fruit once a week, accompanied by a protein source (fish food, dog kibble, spirulina algae, pollen, small pieces of hard-boiled egg, dried or previously killed feed insects...).
Vitamin supplements are not necessary for these species; simply ensure that a source of calcium is always available in the terrarium.
Breeding
To breed isopods, all you need is one male and one female, but since they are invertebrates that thrive best in colonies, the minimum number to start with is ten mixed individuals. Ideally, to speed up the process, you should start with 20–30 isopods.
Females release hormones that attract males. After mating, the female carries the eggs (the number of eggs, as well as the time between fertilization and actual laying, depends on the species) in a pouch beneath her chitinous thorax called the marsupium, which protects them until the young are ready to hatch.
The larvae are almost identical to the adults except for their size and are independent from the very first moment of life. They require no special attention or care; simply maintain the terrarium as usual, and they will reach sexual maturity in a few months.
Isopods as cleaners in other animals' terrariums
These invertebrates can be introduced into virtually any tropical environment, provided they have easy access to calcium and sufficient hiding places to avoid being preyed upon by predators. They will feed on food scraps and feces—as well as dead plants in the case of bioactive terrariums—thereby keeping the environment clean.
The coexistence of isopods and snails benefits both species without posing any danger to either, despite the fact that many people worry when they find isopods wandering on top of a snail’s shell. Many people even place them in feed insect containers so that they can feed on the carcasses.
Sources
And lots of personal experience!
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