This page is not intended to be the only way to manage your snails’ hibernation, nor is it meant to encourage you to try it. It is simply a collection of information gathered from various sources that I decided to summarize and compile to try to shed a little more light on this topic, which has been unfairly turned into a taboo by so-called “snail experts.”
If you want to venture into hibernation induction procedures, I strongly recommend that you do further research.
Hibernation is a physiological process common to all species of snails, both native and non-native, that allows them to survive periods when environmental conditions are unfavorable.
There are two types of hibernation, distinguished only by the factors that cause them and the time of year in which they occur. Estivation occurs during the summer months when temperatures are too high and the environment is almost completely devoid of moisture. Hibernation, on the other hand, occurs in winter. Snails burrow several centimeters below the soil surface to protect themselves from the cold and hibernate there.
When the snail senses that environmental conditions are becoming unfavorable for its survival, its central nervous system sends a neuropeptide—called buccalin-2—to all regions responsible for the physiological control of various organs. This triggers a cascade of reversible phosphorylations of metabolic enzymes and functional proteins, leading to a gradual slowing of vital functions and the subsequent onset of a hypometabolic state, commonly known as hibernation.
Before hibernation can actually begin, however, the gastropod must completely empty its gut. Any food remnants in the intestinal tract would rot and lead to the animal’s certain death. In fact, it stops eating for about 7–10 days in order to completely empty its digestive tract, then retreats into its shell and creates a “plug” of mucus at the opening, called an epiphragm. The epiphragm gradually hardens over time and prevents air from entering and exiting the shell, maintaining the proper level of humidity and warmth in contact with the snail’s body, which, enclosed in its shell, is referred to as “operculated.”
At this stage, the heartbeat is extremely slow, reduced to a minimum but not entirely absent, just like its metabolic functions. In fact, even during hibernation, the snail loses some of its weight.
There are several schools of thought regarding hibernation in captivity. Some argue that it is a practice that should be avoided at all costs because it is unnecessary and risky; others maintain that it is best to induce hibernation because it extends the snails’ lifespan; and still others leave the snails free to manage their potential hibernation as they see fit.
In captivity, however, it is customary to induce only a state of dormancy to allow the snail to rest so that it will be active during the breeding season.
There are many accounts from breeders who, despite maintaining the proper temperature and humidity levels, have observed snails entering a state of dormancy for no apparent reason. According to the scientific community, there are various reasons for this. It may be that a sudden drop in atmospheric pressure triggers dormancy in some particularly sensitive individuals. Some snails, on the other hand, follow their own biorhythm and decide to hibernate regardless of environmental conditions. Others are simply genetically weak and unable to withstand the conditions.
Hibernation can be safely undertaken only by snails that are at least one year old. Young and subadult snails, as well as weak or malnourished individuals, risk entering hibernation and never waking up again.
When you find a snail that has entered its shell, you can take one of two approaches depending on which school of thought you consider most correct: you can leave it as you found it or move it. In the first case, you’ll need to maintain the temperature at which the snail decided to retreat into its shell and stop misting.
In the second case, gently pick up the snail and place it, buried, in a properly ventilated container with temperatures similar to those in the terrarium. The substrate should be kept less moist than usual, as too much moisture could wake the snail, which would then risk dying from the cold.
The snail’s weight should be monitored weekly. If it loses more than 10% of its initial weight, it should be awakened immediately with a lukewarm bath by warming the tip of the shell and allowing the snail itself to break through the epiphragm, after which it should be fed nutrient-rich foods. It will then be returned to its original terrarium, which has been brought back to normal temperatures, and at that point, it will decide for itself whether to remain awake or return to dormancy after some time.
The duration of hibernation is entirely subjective; some snails remain dormant for months, while others only for a week.
Although hibernation is, as we have learned, a physiological and natural process, it’s best not to try to force it, especially if you’re a novice snail keeper. We’d risk doing more harm than good, so it’s best to let the snails regulate themselves.
During the winter of 2023–2024, I experimented with the misting process on my adult Lissachatina fulica. The specimens were in excellent health; they had reproduced during the summer and were feeding regularly. Here’s what I did:
I turned off the heating mats in May 2023 and did not turn them back on. As a result, temperatures began to drop slowly and naturally, reaching 25°C toward the end of September, then dropping to around 22°C in mid-October, and finally stabilizing at 19°C in November.
Once the temperature reached 22°C, the snails began to move around and feed less. At this point, I stopped misting entirely, allowing the substrate to slowly release moisture and dry out on its own.
After a couple of weeks, the terrarium reached 20.5°C, the substrate began to be less moist than usual, and the snails stopped eating.
Ten days later, during the second week of November, the snails entered their shell. The substrate was slightly moist but not dry, and the temperatures in the terrarium were stable at 19°C.
For the following months, I didn’t mist or move the terrarium or the snails.
In early January 2024, I removed the snails to weigh them. One of the two had lost weight, so I tried to wake it up to get it to eat by warming the tip of its shell under hot water. I restored the terrarium to optimal conditions and offered food, but the snail re-entered hibernation that very same night.
I did not attempt to wake them again so as not to unnecessarily stress the snails.
By April, temperatures had once again reached 23°C. In fact, the snails woke up on their own, almost in sync, resuming feeding and exploring with renewed vitality.
As of today, the snails are laying eggs at full pace, exploring, and feeding.